What’s on your ultimate skin care wish list? Perhaps it’s 1) banish acne, blackheads, and whiteheads; 2) minimize pore size; 3) smooth out those fine lines; 4) and maybe even also lighten those pesky dark spots. Seem too ambitious? Turns out, the proper dosage and usage of Retin-A may be able to tackle all of these issues.
Retin-A, a prescription-only, high-dosage derivative of vitamin A, has been used by dermatologists for more than 40 years to treat acne. But new studies have found the topical drug to be even more effective than originally thought: it inhibits the loss of collagen, giving it anti-aging properties, and it also can help prevent the development of pre-cancers.
We asked Dr. Elizabeth Hale, M.D., a dermatologist and clinical associate professor of dermatology at NYU School of Medicine and self-proclaimed “365-day Retin-A user” (she primarily uses it to reduce signs of aging) to answer all of our burning questions about this wonder-Rx.
Retin-A 101
One of the most common questions is: what’s the difference between Retin-A and retinol? They’re both made from high-grade vitamin A derivatives that promote faster skin cell turnover (depending on your age cells turnover anywhere between 21 to 90 days—the older you get, the slower the turnover). Both have been proven as some of the most powerful and effective treatments for skin issues like acne and aging. Retinoids are available in both prescription form and in a range of over-the-counter products. “Retin-A is one of the most common topical medications prescribed to treat acne for people of all ages,” says Hale. Retinol is a much weaker form of a prescription retinoid (roughly a quarter of the strength), but can be found in many products that don’t require a prescription. But retinol is not nearly as effective as Retin-A—and if vitamin A isn’t listed as one of the first five ingredients on a label, chances are what you’re buying won’t help.Who it’s best for
Retin-A is safe and most often prescribed to acne-prone teens. But Hale says it’s helpful for all ages—she has clients in their 20s, 30s, and 40s with acne who use it, and others who rely on it as an effective anti-aging regimen in place of more-expensive treatments (like lasers or Botox).Aside from sunscreen, it’s the number one anti-aging ingredient. “It can help improve skin texture, minimize the appearance of fine lines, reduce the size of pores, lighten dark spots, exfoliate the skin, and even clear acne,” explains Hale. It can also prevent collagen breakdown and stimulate collagen production for younger-looking skin (read: prevent wrinkles).
One of Hale’s colleagues has been demonstrating for years—if not decades—on her left hand, how little needs to be used (a pea-size amount should cover their entire face and neck). “If you look at her two hands next to each other,” notes Hale, “her left hand looks years younger than her right.” It’s no wonder so many people want to get their hands on some (sorry, couldn’t resist!).
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